Suwa Taisha

Suwa Taisha is one of the oldest shrines in Japan, with its origins predating written records. Located in the mountainous Suwa region of Nagano Prefecture, the shrine comprises four separate complexes: two 'Upper Shrines' (Kamisha Maemiya and Kamisha Honmiya) and two 'Lower Shrines' (Shimosha Harumiya and Shimosha Akimiya). Uniquely, none of the four shrines have a traditional honden (inner sanctuary), as the objects of worship are elements of nature—a mountain, a tree, and the wind.

The shrine served as the Ichinomiya (First Shrine) of Shinano Province and was revered by the warrior class, particularly the Takeda and Tokugawa clans. Its deity, Takeminakata-no-kami, is associated with wind, water, and martial prowess, making it popular among samurai.

The Kamisha Honmiya (Upper Shrine Main Shrine) is the most accessible complex and features massive sacred trees, including pillars from past Onbashira festivals. The shrine is set against the dramatic backdrop of the Yatsugatake mountain range. The Shimosha Akimiya (Lower Shrine Autumn Shrine) features the spectacular Neri-no-Sugi, a cedar tree over 800 years old.

Each of the four shrine complexes has its own distinct character and atmosphere. The lack of a honden in any of them emphasizes the ancient, nature-worshipping origins of Japanese spirituality that existed before the construction of shrine buildings.

The Onbashira Festival, held every six years, is one of Japan's most dangerous and thrilling festivals. Massive fir tree logs, measuring up to 17 meters long and weighing 12 tons, are cut from the mountain and dragged by hand through the streets, then ridden down steep slopes in a terrifying display of courage. The logs are then erected at the four corners of each shrine. The festival has been held for over 1,200 years and draws hundreds of thousands of spectators.