Okunoin Cemetery, Koyasan

Okunoin's history begins with its founder, the monk Kukai, posthumously known as Kobo Daishi (774-835). He was one of the most influential figures in Japanese history—a scholar, artist, calligrapher, and the founder of the esoteric Shingon school of Buddhism. In 816, he established a monastic complex on the remote, forested mountaintop of Koyasan as a center for Buddhist training and meditation, far from the political distractions of the capital.

According to Shingon belief, Kobo Daishi did not die in 835. Instead, he entered a state of eternal meditation ('nyujo') in his mausoleum at Okunoin, where he remains to this day, providing relief to those who suffer and awaiting the coming of Maitreya, the Future Buddha. For over a millennium, this belief has drawn countless followers to be buried in Okunoin, wishing for their final resting place to be near this great saint. This has resulted in the creation of Japan's largest and most sacred cemetery.

The experience of Okunoin is the 2-kilometer pilgrimage path that leads to Kobo Daishi's mausoleum ('Gobyo'). The path is lined with over 200,000 tombstones and memorials, nestled among giant, ancient cedar trees, many over a thousand years old. These moss-covered stones belong to people from every walk of life, from commoners to emperors, famous samurai warlords (like Oda Nobunaga and Takeda Shingen), and even modern corporations who have plots for their employees.

The atmosphere is profoundly mystical and serene. The path crosses the Ichinohashi Bridge, the formal entrance, after which visitors should bow. At the end of the path lies the Torodo Hall (Lantern Hall), which houses over 10,000 lanterns donated by worshippers. Two flames are said to have been burning here continuously for over 1,000 years. Behind this hall is the Gobyo, the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi, a place of intense spiritual power and the focus of devotion.

The most important event at Okunoin is the daily meal offering to Kobo Daishi. Twice a day, at 6:00 AM and 10:30 AM, specially appointed monks prepare and carry a meal in a traditional wooden box from a kitchen to the Gobyo, in a solemn procession. This ritual, 'Shojingu', has been performed every single day for over 1,200 years, based on the belief that Kobo Daishi is still alive in his meditative state. On the eve of Kobo Daishi's day of entering eternal meditation (March 20th), a festival of candles and lanterns is held along the path.